I really like jackets! Jackets are so easy to throw on and look put together. You can wear them with almost anything, from skirts and dress pants to jeans and shorts. It is such a versatile garment. Yet, a well fitting jacket is almost impossible for me to find. I have broad shoulders, long arms and smaller waist. All together that makes for a fitting disaster and it is very rare that an RTW jacket will fit to be just “good enough” to wear. Making my own seems to be the best solution I can find and thankfully I know how to do it!
I also have an unreasonable phobia of very classic tailored type jackets. The button up kind, with collar and lapels and long sleeves. I love them! But I shy away from them at the moment because I feel like I would look too frumpy. It really is all inside my head. Somehow my brain thinks that as soon as I put one on I would dry out and become boring and no one would want to be friends with me. Silly, right? So I am attracted to jackets that are classic yet have some kind of unusual quality to them, be it drape, funky collar or no collar at all. Oh and have I mentioned that I would prefer it all to have clean lines and be simple and elegant? At least I know what I want, even if it may be too much…
Three’s a Charm Jacket has all those qualities I am looking for in a jacket. I have never heard of Decades of Style patterns before I stumbled on Three’s a Charm Jacket somewhere on Instagram. It was love at first sight! I promptly bought the pattern and left it sitting in my sewing room for months. I always do that, go figure.
By the time spring rolled around I realized that I do not have a proper little jacket I can throw on when the weather is a little chilly, so jackets all of the sudden resurfaced on my sewing to-do list and eventually jumped the sewing queue. Right around the same time, Caroline brought into her shop this gorgeous marble tweed. I love everything gray and white and textured, of course I had to have the tweed! It was perfect for this jacket!
The pattern is very straight forward. No collar means there are no complicated steps to it at all. Originally it is finished with facings and has no lining, so it is an easy project. I knew I wanted to line the jacket though, so I drafted separate lining pieces and followed Grainline tutorial for bagging a jacket lining to finish my jacket. It is the best tutorial for bagging a jacket! And my jacket looks to good on the inside too.
I put together a muslin prior to cutting the jacket out of my prized tweed. The muslin looked great right off the start, but I made very minor modifications to it:
- I rotated the bust dart a little bit to be at my bust apex (it was a little low)
- I slimmed down the sleeves a little (~3/8″ on each side)
- I rounded the front panel a bit to take out the pointed-ness where the button is supposed to be
- I skipped the buttons and my jacket doesn’t close
- I lengthened and deepened my back darts a little bit to accommodate for my sway back
- I lengthened the jacket a little bit (~2″) since I am 5’10”
The fabric frayed quite a bit so I finished all the raw edges prior to construction. Other than that the construction was very straight forward and I didn’t run into any issues at all. Everything went really smooth!
One thing I do to all my jackets and coats is I add very thin shoulder pads. I think that they provide for a nicer finish for the shoulder of the jacket and the sleeve hangs a quite a bit better. But then most of my friends are very much against the shoulder pads… I think a thin shoulder pad is not reminiscent of 80s and 90s at all, even on my very broad shoulders. What is your opinion on shoulder pads? Do you use them in jackets and coats? Am I the only one who is still stuck in 20s century?
I am very happy with this jacket! It has a very timeless look to it in my opinion and I will definitely be using the pattern again. I am already thinking of a black jacket. One in a cool flower print would also look really nice!