Let’s talk about Full and Small Bust Adjustments on the Bessie top today. We have a lot to cover, so let’s jump in!
Do I need FBA/SBA?
The Bessie top is drafted with a B cup bust in mind. That means that the difference between the high bust and full bust measurements is 2″ (5cm).
What is the difference between your high and full bust? To get your full bust measurement, measure yourself around the fullest part of your bust. To get your high bust measurement, measure yourself around the very top of your bust line, under the armpits.
If the difference between the two measurements is less than 2″, you will need a Small Bust Adjustment. If is it larger, you will need a Full Bust Adjustment.
Next, choose the pattern size based on your high bust measurement:
| 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | |
| High Bust | 31″ 78.4cm | 32″ 86.4cm | 33″ 83.8cm | 34″ 86.4cm | 35″ 89cm | 36.5″ 92.7cm | 38″ 101.6cm | 40″ 101.6cm | 42″ 106.7cm | 44″ 111.8cm | 46″ 116.8cm |
| Bust | 33″ 83.8cm | 34″ 86.4cm | 35″ 89cm | 36″ 91.4cm | 37″ 94cm | 38.5″ 97.8cm | 40″ 101.6cm | 42″ 106.7cm | 44″ 111.8cm | 46″ 116.8cm | 48″ 121.9cm |
FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT
Let’s say your high bust measurement is 38″ (101.6 cm) and your full bust measurement is 42″ (106.7cm). If you were choosing the size based on your full bust measurement, it would put you into size 14. The top will likely fit you in the bust, but you will have fitting issues everywhere else. For that reason, it is better to go with size 12 and do a full bust adjustment.
How much to add?
Keeping up with the example, the high bust measurement is 38″ (101.6cm) and the full bust measurement is 42″ (106.7 cm), and we will be making a size 12 top.
Size 12 full bust measurement is 40″ (101.6cm). This means that we will be adding 2″ (5cm) total to the front bodice:
42″ (106.7cm) – 40″(101.6cm) = 2″ (5.1cm)
Since we will be doing adjustment to half the bodice, we will need to add half that amount – 1″ (2.5cm).
Full Bust Adjustment Steps:
Start off by drawing in the stitching line at the front raglan seam, 0.5″ (1.3cm) away from the cut line.
Draw a line through the center of the bust dart, extending it 2″ (5cm) beyond the dart apex. This is the bust point.
Next, draw a vertical line, parallel to the center front, straight down from the bust point. Draw a second line from the bust point through the armscye.
Using scissors cut through the lines as follows:
- starting at the hem, cut up to the bust point, pivot and continue cutting up to the raglan stitching line. Do not cut through the stitching line.
- Starting at the side seam, cut along the line you drew through the dart, up to the bust point. Do not cut through, leave a small paper hinge at the bust point.
- Clip into the seam allowance along the raglan seam to create a small paper hinge right next to the fist line you cut.
On a scrap piece of paper, draw two vertical lines the same distance away from each other as the amount you need to add to the pattern. In our example, it is 1″ (2.5cm).
Place the pattern on top of the scrap paper. Line up the cut line closest to the center front with the right line on the paper. Tape the pattern down around the bust.
Using the paper hinges, maneuver the rest of the pattern so that the vertical cut lines line up with the parallel lines you drew on the paper.
Tape the pattern down, leaving the center front area below the waistline free.
The hem of your pattern will likely be two different length. To fix it, draw a horizontal line at the center front and cut through it. Move the bottom of the pattern piece down so that it aligns with the rest of the hemline. Tape it down.
Draw the new dart. Make sure the dart legs are the same length. You will likely need to extend the upper leg so that it matches the lower leg. Redraw the upper side seam if necessary.
Trace the new front pattern and admire your hard work!
SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT
Let’s say your high bust measurement is 32″ (86.4 cm) and your full bust measurement is 33″ (83.8cm). If you were choosing the size based on your full bust measurement, it would put you into size 0. The top will likely fit you in the bust, but you will have fitting issues everywhere else. For that reason, it is better to go with size 2 and do a small bust adjustment.
| 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | |
| High Bust | 31″ 78.4cm | 32″ 86.4cm | 33″ 83.8cm | 34″ 86.4cm | 35″ 89cm | 36.5″ 92.7cm | 38″ 101.6cm | 40″ 101.6cm | 42″ 106.7cm | 44″ 111.8cm | 46″ 116.8cm |
| Bust | 33″ 83.8cm | 34″ 86.4cm | 35″ 89cm | 36″ 91.4cm | 37″ 94cm | 38.5″ 97.8cm | 40″ 101.6cm | 42″ 106.7cm | 44″ 111.8cm | 46″ 116.8cm | 48″ 121.9cm |
How much to remove?
Keeping up with the example, the high bust measurement is 32″ (86.4cm) and the full bust measurement is 33″ (83.8cm), and we will be making a size 2 top.
Size 2 full bust measurement is 34″ (86.4cm). This means that we will be aremoving 1″ (2.5cm) total to the front bodice:
34″ (83.8cm) – 32″(86.4cm) = 1″ (~2.5cm)
Since we will be doing adjustment to half the bodice, we will need to remove half that amount – 0.5″ (1.3 cm).
Small Bust Adjustment Steps:
Start off by drawing in the stitching line at the front raglan seam, 0.5″ (1.3cm) away from the cut line.
Draw a line through the center of the bust dart, extending it 2″ (5cm) beyond the dart apex. This is the bust point.
Next, draw a vertical line, parallel to the center front, straight down from the bust point. Draw a second line from the bust point through the armscye.
Using scissors cut through the lines as follows:
- starting at the hem, cut up to the bust point, pivot and continue cutting up to the raglan stitching line. Do not cut through the stitching line.
- Starting at the side seam, cut along the line you drew through the dart, up to the bust point. Do not cut through, leave a small paper hinge at the bust point.
- Clip into the seam allowance along the raglan seam to create a small paper hinge right next to the fist line you cut.
Draw a vertical line the same distance away from the cut line as the amount you need to remove from the pattern. In our example, it is 0.5″ (1.3cm)
Move the bottom part of the side front pattern to line up with the line you just drew. Using the paper hinges, maneuver the rest of the pattern. Tape the pattern down, leaving the center front area below the waistline free.
The hem of your pattern will likely be two different length. To fix it, draw a horizontal line at the center front and cut through it. Move the bottom of the pattern piece up so that it aligns with the rest of the hemline. Tape it down.
Draw the new dart. Make sure the dart legs are the same length. If one if shorter than the other, lengthen the shorter dart and re-draw the side seam.
Note, that a Small Bust Adjustment may completely eliminate your dart.
Trace the new front pattern and admire your hard work!
There are some great resources on how to do FBA and SBA online. Some of my favourites are:
- The Beginner’s Guide: Full Bust Adjustment on Curvy Sewing Collective
- Four Essential Full Bust Adjustments on Seamwork
- Four Essential Small Bust Adjustments on Seamwork
Let me know if you have any questions!
xoxo,
Anya
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