Ever since I realized that pocket facings are not only for fancy pants, my sweatpants game has changed. I love a nice deep pocket, but I hate the added bulk when said pocket is made out of french terry or sweatshirt fabric. Adding a facing to the back of the pocket is the way to go. The pockets are nice and light, yet as deep as I want them. And I get to use scraps of fabric I have lying around.
Here are the steps on how to add a facing to your pockets:
1. Trace the pocket pattern piece onto a separate piece of paper.
2. Draw a line parallel to the pocket opening side. The line can be anywhere 2-2.5″ (5-6.5cm) away from the side seam. It’s your choice on how deep you want the facing to be.
3. Cut out the pocket facing pattern piece. Transfer the pocket opening notches and the grainline from the pocket bag pattern piece. The notches will help identify where the pocket facing goes on the pocket piece.
Cut two pieces of the pocket facing from the main fabric. If you want to add a facing to both sides of the pocket bag (you can do what you want!), then cut out 4 pieces.
Now onto sewing:
4. Finish the vertical side of the pocket facing that goes inside the pocket (not the pocket opening side). This step is optional if you are using knit fabrics since they don’t fray. You can use a serger or a zig-zag stitch here.
5. Matching pocket opening notches and with the wrong side of the pocket facing facing the right side of the pocket bag, attach the pocket facing to the pocket bag. I usually use a straight stitch to attach the facing, but you can use zig-zag stitch as well. Baste the pocket opening sides together.
This part is optional and you can use pins to hold it together since you are likely attaching the pockets to the pants legs next.
6. I like to attach the faced pocket bag to the back pant leg since this is the part visible when I use the pocket, but you make the rules here!
Let me know if you have questions!
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